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Comedogenic Cosmetic Ingredients

by Lisel Torgerson

Before buying any cosmetic product, it is important to understand the meaning of the word comedogenic. Its definition is "tending to produce or aggravate acne". Therefore, a comedogenic ingredient or product is one that will exacerbate acne problems.

For this reason, it is a good idea to read the label of your skin care and cosmetic products before buying them. If you find any comedogenic components, stay away from that product. If you have already purchased a product containing these types of components, throw it out.

Acne Formation

Our skin's sebum is complex, made of 6 or 7 principal components, including triglycerides and squalene, a precursor of cholesterol. The triglycerides are degraded on the surface of the skin by bacteria to free fatty acids, which cause acne episodes in genetically predisposed families. As we will see, many cosmetics also contain these acids. Unfortunately, some cosmetics contain esters of fatty acids like isopropyl mystrate or butyl stearate which are more likely to boost the generation of some acne lesions. These cosmetics can interfere with traditional adult acne treatments.

Before we discuss cosmetic components, we should consider the purpose of sebum. We could be under the impression that sebum is vital to our skin's health. However, there is no evidence to back up that statement. Apparently, the discharge of sebum is just a vestige whose usefulness has been lost in the path of evolution.

Sebum does not prevent wrinkles either. Wrinkling, or aging of the skin, is a consequence of accumulated sun exposure, and no moisturizer in the world is capable of reversing this exhaustion of tissues.

Harmful Ingredients in Acne Treatments

Three main groups of offending components

Lanolins Among cosmetics ingredients, the most commonly used is lanolin. Lanolin is simply sheep skin oil extracted from wool. The fatty acids in lanolin, just like fatty acids in our own oil, tend to aggravate some acne in the skin of individuals with inherited tendency towards acne. Many lanolin derivatives currently being used in cosmetics are harmful to acne-prone people, i.e., etoxylated lanolins and acetylated lanolins. The partially synthetic lanolins are able to penetrate skin pores even better than natural lanolin. Lanolin oil, itself, is acceptable.

Isopropyl Myristate and its Chemical Cousins

One of the worst components is a penetrating oil known as isopropyl myristate. It is the main ingredient in penetrating rust remover called Liquid Wrench. Isopropyl Myristate helps cosmetics go on more softly and have a slicker feel. This particular penetrating oil is so invading that if left over night in a beaker, it will actually move over the top, down the borders and onto the table top. There are several chemicals analogous to isopropyl myristate in cosmetics. The most common are: isopropyl palmitate, putty sterate, isostearyl neopentonate, octyl palmitate, octyl sterate, isopropyl isothermal, decyl oleate, myristyl myristate and isocetyl stearate and PPG myristyl propionate. All must be avoided, as must other surfactants such as laureth-4.

Drugs As Acne Treatments

Maybe one the most troublesome recent discoveries about acne-causing potential is the red colorations used in blushes. Some of the red dyes used in drugs and cosmetics are comedogenic. This discovery is not surprising considering they are coal tar derivatives. Ever since doctors noticed that acne was an occupational illness of chimney sweeps, coal tar has been recognized for its acne-causing properties. An adequate substitute for red color is carmine, a dye derived from insect wings and discovered by the Aztecs.

Always be on the look out for these comedogenic components. Take a moment and read product labels. This simple action can keep your skin beautiful and healthy.

An all-natural alternative to surgical acne scar treatment offers the opportunity of easily get rid of acne scars and skin lesions.

Published December 24th, 2007

Filed in Beauty, Health, Women